Slide Show - Gibb River Road

The enchanting Emma Gorge at El Questro Station.



Zeebedee Springs



Crossing the Pentecost River on our way to Home Valley Station from El Questro Station with the Cockburn Ranges in the background. Makes me want to go and watch the movie "Australia" again.



Entrance to Home Valley Station



The infamous prison boab tree that led us on a wild goose chase around the Cockburn Ranges on the Karunjie track. When our fishing guide Tom heard we went on this track he laughed and said 'what tyres do you have? It's a shit of a track'.



Windjana National Park. The colour of these cliff sides were awesome.

The Gibb River Road

Setting off from Kununurra at our usual departure of between 9am and 11am (grey nomads are up and gone well before 8am) we headed up to Wyndham. If we thought it was hot in Kununurra then we certainly got a shock in Wyndham. It was stinking hot there. Looking out from the look-out you could see the 5 rivers that meet and go out to sea. An impressive sight in anyone's eyes.

Curiosity got the better of us as we headed out of Wyndham, we wanted to go check out a prison boab tree. Well this little tourist attraction lead us on an interesting path to reach the Gibb River Road. Karunjie road - what an adventure! We didn't know what was ahead, the lady on the hotline of the major sign said "yeah road is open, friends did it a few weeks ago and they said it was all good". Ha! One persons interpretation of the condition of a dirt road is totally different to the next person you speak too. This little adventurous road took us around the base of the Cockburn Ranges. Spectacular sight as you bump along the track that takes you through the El Questro Station. A road that we learnt is for the pastoralists and fair dinky di outdoor adventurers or tourists that are on an expensive day tour put on by the station.


(Trip around Karunjie road looking out at the Cockburn ranges)

El Questro Station
Zeebedee Springs - the name says it all. With a name like Zeebedee it was sure to be a cool place to visit. Thermal springs flowing down through the native palm trees and rocks. Great bath to start the day.

Emma Gorge, a little treasure located at the end of the track at the Emma Gorge Resort. We figured it must be alright when we were walking up to it when 2 guys came sprinting past us with bare feet. The track was dirt with sharp rocks sticking out everywhere. You could feel some of the sharp rocks in proper shoes let alone bare feet at pace. Turns out the lads had grown up in the area, with it being their backyard they do it all the time. Climbing up over the last mound of rocks we were greeted by an enchanting watering hole. Soaking up the ambience of the place we stayed for a good hour before retiring to the bar for a well earned beverage.

Home Valley Station
Just what we were looking for, a place to call 'home' for 2 nights. Not over crowded, an awesome bar in an open shed and an inviting pool in the 40c heat. It just so happened to be the station where I snagged my first barra on my 1st fishing experience. The barra just happened to be approx 1.2 metres according to our fisherman guide Tom. If you haven't heard the story already we decided to fill in 4 hours with a spot of fishing down on the muddy banks of the banks of the Pentecost River. Amazing afternoon cause I snagged a barra. The station had a more friendly feel about it then El Questro and a far better outlook onto the Cockburn Ranges and the Pentecost river.

El Questro Station was lovely but for us it was too commercialised it was missing its rustic outback appeal. Home Valley Station on the other hand had it all just right.

Further down the Gibb River Road
Due to bush fires in the area a lot of the places we were planning to visit were closed. This turned the Gibb River road stint of the trip from 9 days down to 4. Once we left Home Valley we set off again for what turned out to be one of our longer days of travelling. Thankfully we fuelled up on the famous scones at Ellenbrae Station that took us all the way to Windjana Gorge. The colour of the rock at Windjana Gorge was fantastic. Black mostly with orange sprinkled throughout. Not rock you see just anywhere. Another feature of this part of the world was Tunnel Creek. Was a little disappointed that there were no guided tours still running. According to 'Ranger Stacey' the guide stopped them only in the last we cause it was too hot. Man if I am out there then it can't be too bad. Never fear, Damian knows a lot of stuff, he tells me "Morton & Nigel" taught him all he knows so we did our own tour of the tunnel. It was neat inside, didn't go through to the bat infested area, didn't fancy going near them.

Overall the Gibb was fun but unfortunately for us over too soon due to fires but fortunately this meant we picked up a few extras days to spend elsewhere.

Kununurra

On the way into Kununurra we went and checked out Lake Arygle. The sheer size of that lake from what you can see standing at one of the look outs is impressive. What is even more impressive is when you discover that the portion you can see from the viewing point is only 1% of the lake. They were onto something when they built that lake, if only one could be built and filled in every state of Australia.

Expectations of Kununurra were not high prior to getting there (for me). There was the lake, river and irrigation system to see but when we got there I have to say I was amazed at the thriving township and the industry that it has created. We stayed for 3 nights, think if we had the time could of easily have stayed another 2 nights and filled our time in easily.

To take in the ambience of this area of the Kimberley we went on a 'JJJ' Cruise from the base of the Lake Argyle dam wall, along the Ord River onto Lake Kununurra. Talk about service, we got dropped off on the shoreline of our caravan park, don't get service like that everyday. JJJ Tours were great, 5 hours of learning about how Kununurra came to be, the thriving industries it has created, all whilst cruising down the picturesque Ord River and Lake Kununurra. It's a pity we didn't travel some 15 years ago, apparently 15 years ago they tried selling blocks of land on Lake Kununurra not that far from town. No one wanted them. If only they'd known what they are worth today they sure would have snapped them up, over $1M.


(Sunset over Lake Kununurra)

The other tour we took was a flight over Lake Argyle, the Bungle Bungles back via the Lake Argyle diamond mine in a Cessna "buzz box"that seated 6. Good way to see a lot in 2 hours, not so good when the pilot decides to tell us that when he was learning to fly his instructor didn't teach him how to navigate properly so he nearly had an accident in his early career. Just what I wanted to hear!


(After our flight, looking a little warn out cause we got up at sparrow farts time, I was crock before boarding plane and you couldn't swing a cat in the plane if you tried, no way of coming out looking too flash after that)

The 'Industry' - what can't they produce here? Mangoes, sandalwood, chia, pumpkins the list goes on with the best one of all being pink diamonds. I'd like to know who just pops into the jewellers in Kununurra (of all places) to pick up a pair of pink diamond earrings at a mere $220k. Can't say I'd be wearing them but I would take the $52 k stone. The diamond mine sources one champagne glass of pink diamonds (most expensive type of diamond on the market in the world).

Dinner recommendation if you ever make it up this way is the 'Pump House' restaurant, great wood fired pizza on the lake. Nifty way to recycle a pump house.

"Top End" Slideshow

Daley Waters Pub, a must stop when in NT.

Stephen & Damian enjoying a cold one @ the Daley Waters Pub

Don't see signs like this back home

Mataranka Thermal Pool - home of the noisy Peacock & millions of bats

Gunlom Plunge Pool, view from the bottom then 2nd is what they look like at the top (you can swim at the top & bottom, just need to be on alert for freshies at the bottom)

Maguk swimming hole & plunge pools (1st one is the bottom of the 2nd picture)

Farewell to the "Top End"

From Darwin we took off down the Stuart highway to the Litchfield National Park. A different terrain to Kakadu, a little more picturesque on the drive through. We stayed the night at the Wangi Falls camp ground. A spot with 2 flowing water falls into a swimming hole. Only fresh crocs at this time of year, apparently, nothing to be concerned about. A place that only a few weeks ago you couldn't get a camp spot unless you were waiting at the gate early in the morning for another camper to leave. So far we have been very lucky and gotten into every where we have gone too, our trip timing has worked well. The highlight at Litchfield NP was by far the 'Buley Waterhole', clear cool water boulding over the the rocks in our own private waterhole. All the rest was great too but Buley Waterhole was the best.

Having spent the day exploring Litchfield NP by the time we got to a small village called Adeliade River the green grass of the caravan park we drove past looked too enticing so we called it a day. Adelaide River is home to a War Cemetery. The place was oozing with history from WWI & WWII. As well as green grass the 303 bar of Adeliade River was a hit. We were going to stay a second night just so we could have a day of R & R but the want to get going got the better of us so we hit the road. Did we tell you the pub was great!

Time to make tracks for Kununurra although we took our time and did it over 2 days. Stop off on the way was "Victoria River Roadhouse". We nearly called it a day 20ks prior to here, thank god we didn't because only a few kilometres down the road were the ranges following the Victoria River that sprung upon us. What a sight to see. One of the nicer roadhouses we have come across (great views do help). Damian took in a spot of fishing, I didn't follow him as it was in long long grass and croc country, me not silly. Instead I took in the upper level views along the road and bridge. The pub sure attracted the locals later on, was going to leave Damian to watch the Hawks defeat the Swans but something told me I was best to stay put.

We are still alive!

Sorry folks we are still alive just been busy. Who would have thought one could be so busy on holidays (that and reception is pretty average in the outback). This post will be big so get your beverage of choose ready and read on......

From Katherine, Kakadu National Park, Darwin, Litchfield National Park, Adelaide River to the Victoria River Roadhouse, we bid farewell to the Northern Territory Top End. A whole world away from southern NSW.

Kakadu National Park
We were fortunate enough to be able to spend 2 nights in Kakadu however unfortunate to not be able to stay longer to explore. To do the park justice we'd suggest 5-7 days and a good 4WD. On the main road you don't see a lot, just trees and termite mounds. To see Kakadu you need to go off road.

Gunlom (pronounced Goon-lom) Plunge Pool
About 35kms (1 hour later) off road to make it to the camp ground of the Gunlom Plunge Pool. We had great expectations that we would make it to the Jim Jim Falls to camp for the evening but we kissed that good-bye after the trip into Gunlom. Hot and sweaty, camp set-up time to conquer the cliff face to the spectacular plunge pools. Northern Territory National Parks are pretty good, in my days of hiking in NSW & VIC when they indicate the grade of a hike one is left skeptical, NT are true to their word "difficult, steep, rugged terrain" - they weren't wrong. Worth it though. Up top was the most spectacular set of natural pools one has ever cast their eye over (that's if or haven't seen it in photos before I suppose).

Cooinda & Maguk
Great expectations again today to do it all but alas we only made it too Cooinda. It didn't disappoint. Cruise on the Yellow River to witness wild crocs in their natural habitat although the best part of the tour was spotting baby "Jesus birds" on the swamp grass. Tiny little bundles of cuteness walking across the grass with their popsicle with no idea there was a croc swimming just a few metres away.
Our exploration today took us to Maguk hence why we only made it too Cooinda rather than Jabiru. Thanks to the Baulch's we got to see some gorgeous water holes above the falls of Maguk. The pools are only known to the locals or tourists that are advised of them on an organised tour. Thanks Baulch's! Damian had a ball even if it meant being scared shitless by a water monitor and nearly losing his hat and sunnies in the water (he he).

Darwin
What a city. Different, unusual but great. Great welcome to the city in the first night by visiting the Mindil Markets. Think I set a record, only bought one thing, could have bought a lot more but Damian has this way of restraining me "how many dresses in the same style do you need" silly question to ask a girl. That will be the dress I will talk about for the next year that I should have bought for summer. My bank balance is better off when Deato comes shopping with me though - thanks!
A very laid back city, no hassle and bustle of city life. A nice change. We took in the views of the wharf, museum, the air museum and just hung out. Highlight was the air museum. If anyone is into planes then highly recommend you visit the next Temora Warbirds day in early November, you'll see the planes sitting in the Darwin museum in action.

Snapshots

View of Uluru not far from our campground on the second evening in Yulara.



Artistic shot of Uluru in the late afternoon.



Top of Kings Canyon. Impressive walk. From the top looking over it looks like the Bungle Bungles. Highly rate this walk.



Alice Springs view from on top of Anzac Hill.

Alice Springs

What an experience it has been to be in Alice Springs for 3 evenings. The name is gorgeous, the town not so much so.

Wandering downtown to check the place out felt empty, there weren't many people around in the shops and a lot of places seem to have closed down. It made Stockinbingal feel like a busy place. Discovered were the "locals" were on the way home, down by the Todd River.

It's Alice Springs meets the Eiffel Tower security - in Paris when I visited a few years ago they had the military walking around with massive guns and police to watch guard, in Alice Springs there is a cop at the front door of the grog shop to deter any trouble. My favourite though was Alice Springs meets the UK - in the 2 malls you have to pay 50c to use the toilet. More than happy to pay to be guaranteed a clean toilet (that was 50c for all day not just the once, bargain).

Today we ventured out on the bikes to the original Telegraph Station that was set up to coordinate the construction of over 3,000kms of communication technology between Darwin and Adelaide back in 1872. Followed by a steep climb up to Anzac Hill that gave us a 360c view of the town that is surrounded by the MacDonnell Ranges. The ranges look pretty special on the outskirts of town.

There is a great lot of history to the town that makes it what it is, but it is hard to find the beauty of the place in a 3 day stop over. Like all places though quite often it isn't until you have immersed yourself in the community do you see it's true qualities. Worth a visit should you get a chance. A town where anything goes.

Bound for Uluru & Kata Tjuta (Yulara)

Back on the bitumen - Kulgera
Need to book in for a trivia night when we get back, we'll be full of knowledge at this rate. Having a quiet beverage with lunch at the Kulgera pub because outside was too fly blown it was discovered that we were a bees dick away from the true centre point of Australia. Pretty cool. Out in this part of the country is where they map the country from. See full of useful knowledge for the next trivia evening.

Uluru to Kata Tjuta
If you're strapped for time when in central Australia to see Uluru (Ayers Rock) then here's our tip to save an unsuspecting tourist 1/2 a day in travel time. About 140kms in on the Lasserter Hwy that takes you to Yulara (where
Uluru is located) is Mt Connor. If you weren't too familiar with the round shape of Uluru and that there was another 100 odd kms to go you could be convinced Mt Connor was the real deal. Feel a bit sorry for Mt Connor, its shear size is impressive but it is overlooked by Uluru. It's been listed on our list of "next trip adventures".

We made it into Yulara just before sunset so we headed to the rock to see what all the fuss was about witnessing with our own eyes an Uluru sunset. It didn't disappoint. View was spectacular. It is as some would say 'just a rock', yes but a pretty special rock. We scored on this evening. Just as the sun had set and tourists packed up to head in for the evening up popped the moon (we aren't considering ourselves tourists in this area we are one of the locals - great to see the large volume of international travellers supporting the Australian economy). It was a show in itself, watching the moon rise up from the horizon next to Uluru. Illuminating the sky with its red glow from the red centre sand.

Whilst at Yulara we took in the sites of Kuta Tjuta (the Olgas) with a hike in and around them followed by a mandatory closer look at Uluru. Two massive icons relatively close together (60kms apart - thats considered closenin my book for out in this part of the world) but yet totally different rock formations.

Uluru - to climb it or not to climb it? Really wasn't a hard decision to make for me. You'd have to be bloody mad to climb up that cliff face. Damian conquered it on his adventure in a bus with mates years ago, but was not so eager on this occasion to give it a whirl. Thank goodness!! Great entertainment watching others do it though!

Fuel Prices
Talk about getting stung on the price of fuel. Won't be complaining about the price back home anymore, we've got it good. Started at around $1.60 (Leeton), $1.77 (Hawker, SA), $1.99 (Maree), $2.05 (Kulgera). Held off filling up in Yulara thinking $2.25 was rich, they were just trying to sting unsuspecters. Silly silly decision, back on the highway at Curtin Springs it was $2.31. But it got better from there $2.33 at Kings Canyon. All worth it though for what we are getting the chance to check out.

Oodnadatta Track via the Flinders Ranges

Flinders Ranges
We detoured from our itinerary to take in the Flinders Ranges. Taking the off-road track through the national park we drove through to gorges. Photos don't do the views justice. A South Australian local made comment that this is the first time in his lifetime he has ever seen the area green. He would have seen a few decades through the area.

Oodnadatta Track
Making tracks across the Oodnadatta we covered some rugged terrain between Williams Creek to Oodnadatta. Made up for it with a cold one at the local in Oodnadatta. Stinkiest pub around, but the drinks were cold and the publican was up for a chat. Thank god the weather has been good to us. The publican was telling us that the place was flooded in for 5 weeks. Being stuck there for 5 weeks would make me put the "princess shoes" (apparently I brought some with me but yet to find them) on and be on the 1st plane available out of there. Place has character but not somewhere I'd be parking for too long, not even to camp the night.

Coward Springs was a great spot. The whole way along till we got there Damian was "I went to this spring along here somewhere wouldn't mind calling into there" problem was he couldn't recall the name and it was over 15 years ago. Getting late in the day and it was our best choice to call into this place called "Coward Springs", then the memory came back. "This was the place it's got palm trees!" It was a cool spot in the middle of no where. That was the fun about the track you really felt away from civilisation and in the middle of no where. Nice. Rate it!

Oodnadatta Track con't

Coward Springs - bath taken care of for the day.



Morning tea break at the William Creek pub. Priceless advertising for "Deaton Metalfab" (spot the business card).



Home away from home for 8 weeks - no creature comforts to found. Mastered the art of life in the bush at this camp site! Funnels are an amazing thing to have in the tool box.

Oodnadatta Track

The start of the Oodnadatta Track



View on the track heading into camp at Coward Springs. Great camp.

Mad Max to Magnetic Hill

1,500kms travelled 14,500kms more to come. Travelling from Leeton we headed up to Broken Hill via Hillston, Ivanhoe, Menindee onto Broken Hill. Roads were dry so we were set. Wide open dirt tracks to test out the cruiser. All reports are its held up really well.

Broken Hill was way more impressive then I thought it would be. No sight of the town ahead as its hidden by the lodes of ore piled high around the township until you sneak in through the main road in as you come from the east. What lied ahead is a pretty thriving township that was oozing with character. We made our 1st "should have gone with 1st instinct" travel error. Could have gone to the camping spot with a view or drive on and see what else is there. Tough decision but time wasn't on our side. Where we settled was good but view was of a corrugated fence. Got to love travelling, at home you wouldn't be seen dead in your pj's outside of your yard. Head to a caravan park and the park is your new found back yard.

Sight seeing will not leave you disappointed in Broken Hill. Taking in the sites from the "big red chair" on top of the hill you can see for miles. Up with the chair was probably the most unique memorial site around, dedicated to the 800+ miners that have lost their lives since mining began in the area back in the 1800s.

Today we travelled to the land of Mad Max ~ Silverton. Quaint spot about 35ks north-west of Broken Hill. Beautiful old buildings that would have seen many a piece of history being made in the town. Then there's the "Silverton Hotel". If only the walls could talk in that place, you'd be in for a good night if they could.

Heading across the South Australian border we headed to "Magnetic Hill" just outside of Orrorro. That was one freaky experience. A 4 tonne landcruiser packed to the brink rolling backwards in neutral up hill. Go figure. Just to make sure it wasn't a fluke we tried it 3 times. Top speed 8ks up hill backwards, impressive. If you didn't know the hill's trick and you just happened to have left you car in neutral oh my you would be freaking out.

Today we were aiming for Leigh Creek but with all of our site seeing here & there we have pulled up stumps in Hawker. Hawker is at the foothills of the Flinders Ranges. Driving through the rolling green hills of SA brought back memories of travelling in Canada from Calgary to Banff. Wide open spaces & there in front of you are the ranges. I didn't think we had any views similar but we do.

1 Week to go.....

And this is the current state of our wheels. Concerning? No cause Damian has it all under control!

The Trip

Setting off from Leeton at the crack of dawn to ensure we cover as many miles as possible in a day to reach our goal destination of Broken Hill will be day one. My travel motto til now has been that if your desitnation is greater then 5 hours away opt to fly. No option on this adventure, open roads ahead for approximately 16,000ks +.

On Saturday 17th August Damian and I will be heading across Australia on an 8 week camping adventure. We'll be taking in the Oodnadatta track, Lake Eyre, Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon a bit of a longer stop over in Alice Springs before heading off on another length of the trip. From Alice we are bound for Mataranka, Jabiru via Gunlom Plunge Pool (hope it's as spectacular in person as it is in the photos) then Jabiru before arriving in Darwin. All this in the first 2 weeks. Along the way we will meet up with Steve & Robyn(Damian's uncle & aunt from Perth) who are traveling with a few other friends. From all reports of Darwin it sounds like we might want to retweak our itinerary to be able fit it all in. 8 weeks in proving not enough time to do it all but all is not lost it is our backyard we can come back.

Heading off from Darwin it will be fun times ahead. I declare now that I like camping although I've personally never done it for more than 3 days, so approaching the 3rd week heading further outback will toughen me up. Damian's in for a treat! We'll be setting off for Litchfield NP, Katherine, Sullivan's Creek, Kununurra. From Kununurra we say good-bye to any form of luxury for a week as we venture across the Gibb River road. Lots to see and do along the way (will save the finer details for when we've experienced them for you along the way). The reward at the end of the Gibb Road will be arriving in Broome to walk along Cable beach.

It is when we arrive in Broome that we are at a crossroads, spend a couple of days to head up and check out Cape Leveque or head off earlier down south. Make that decision as we get closer. After all we are on holidays, we can do anything.

The change of scenery from red dirt of the off road tracks to the highways of Western Australia along the coast line will be a welcomed change. We'll zig zag a little down the WA coast and inland. So much to see so little time but here's a taste of where we'll venture:- Port Hedland, Karijini NP, Exmouth, Monkey Mia (swimming with dolphins) then onwards bound to Perth.  Heading from Perth will be on the open road of the Nullabor Plain. Too excited about the 1st seven weeks that its hard for one to get excited about the final length of the trip so will save that for another post.

We welcome any recommendations as we trek around. So that is the summary of "The Trip". Till the next post.......